An axle flip can prevent lots of avoidable damage to holding tanks, gate valves, jacks, or anything else hanging low that could potentially be damaged by limited clearance.

Although it is called an “axle flip”, there is actually no flipping of the axles at all. This is a common misconception and can sometimes have do-it-yourself RV’ers caught in a dangerous situations where there is improper tire wear and impediment in braking.

Instead of flipping the axles, what an axle flip actually is, is removing the axles from their normal mounted position above the springs (overslung) to under the springs (underslung). A fairly simple process, however, knowledge is needed about metal integrity, the RV braking system and welding.

During an axle flip many parts may require replacing. The standard parts are spring saddles, u-bolts, nuts, shackle bolts and bushings (if worn).

Axle flips can only be completed on spring type axles. If your RV has torsion axles, you can install a lift kit similar to that of a regular truck.

Most RV service centers will have both options available and technicians that are proficient in completing the task.

Lindsey Roberts

Red Seal RV Technician

Snowy Peaks RV

Wheel bearings on an RV preform two basic functions: supporting trailer weight (loaded and unloaded) and to allow the wheels to turn with the least amount of friction possible.

Wheel bearings are the supports that hold the wheels onto the axles of the RV. And, since they’re spinning all the time, they need constant lubrication. Repacking the wheel bearings is simply “changing” the grease that lubricates the bearing — pushing out the old stuff and putting new, clean grease back in.

Wheel Bearing Failure

An RV was parked for years with out a repack, or the bearings were filled with too much/too little grease or the person who did the last repack didn’t know what they were doing and now you are finding yourself in the worst case scenario…

Maybe the DOT/CVSA pulled you over and asked you to test your brake-away cable. Or you might have been hearing a grinding noise, rumbling, a squealing sound or there is smoke coming from the wheel of the unit, or maybe cars were flashing their lights trying to warn you, or very worse case the wheel just plain came off causing a dangerous situation making you pull over.

Now you need a mechanic or RV tech & probably a tow truck to help you out of this bind.

Here’s our maintenance section to help you avoid the above issues:

Maintenance

Wheel bearings should be maintained at least once every two years or every 10,000 miles. This maintenance should include:

• A complete cleaning, inspection & repacking of the brake drum.
• Testing of the brake magnets & inspection of the brake assembly.
• Greasing of the actuator arm, brake adjuster & brake away cable.
• Proper torque applied to the axle nut and wheel nuts.
• Check for proper tire wear.
• Complete brake adjustment.
• and finally, testing of the brake away cable.

The above is all included in our standard wheel bearing repack service to insure that the entire wheel and brake assembly are in good shape for the season ahead.

If you do decide to complete this yourself, please be mindful of the following safety precautions. Proper stabilization is a must, never used compressed air to clean bearings, never mix old grease with new grease, never use a grease gun on RV axles with brakes and finally always use a new seal and cotter pin when repacking or reinstalling a brake drum.

The Roadtrip RV First Aid Kit 

You keep your RV’s wheel bearings maintained every couple of years but are going on a road trip. Even though you don’t expect to cut your finger on your vacation you probably are bringing a medical first aid kit so why not bring one for your RV’s wheel bearings?

Even if you don’t plan on doing the repairs yourself, it is always a great plan to bring a complete wheel bearing kit along with the necessary tools to do a roadside repair. That way you have all the parts required for either you or a qualified service technician to get you safely back on the road and enjoying your trip again.

Lindsey Roberts

Red Seal RV Technician

Snowy Peaks RV

Q. What is the difference between a deep cycle battery and an automotive battery?

A. A RV battery has fewer lead plates but also has much thicker plates to give a higher reserve. (More T.V. time, lights on, etc)

Q. Why are RV’ers going to 6-volt golf cart batteries instead of 12-volt deep cycle batteries?
A. 6 volt batteries have more reserve capacity because of their very high lead content and the track record for longevity is awesome. Therefore, if you plan on “boon-docking” or “dry-camping” (RV’ing without power) and you have the room for two 6-volt batteries (wired in series) that is the answer (below is an image of how to hook up two 6-volt batteries in series).

Q.  Are large equipment batteries (commonly referred to as cat batteries) a good choice for my RV battery power?
A.  Sure, if you own a “pre” 1988 RV with no power hungry electronics to keep the fridge, furnace and water heater running.

Q. What batteries do you carry at Snowy Peaks RV?

A. Most of our batteries are deep cycle RV marine batteries. But we also carry tractor batteries and breakaway batteries as well. Here is a list of our common 6V and 12V deep cycle batteries:

• 6V: G2300 232 AH
• 6V: G2200 216 AH
• 6V: US145 251 AH
• 6V: USL16 420 AH
• 12V: G24RV 130 RC/550CA
• 12V: G247RV 160RC/750CA

Q. What is the best way to charge an RV battery?

A. The best way to charge an RV battery is with a trickle charger battery charger. Generally these charges are around 3.5 Amps. With the right charger you will also be able to charge 6V batteries separately and together so that you make sure that each battery is fully charged.

Battery Maintenance

Q. When should I add water to my RV batteries?
A. Your RV batteries should be checked once a month and distilled water can be added if the lead plates under the battery caps are starting to show.

Q. Is my monitor panel inside my RV a good way to check my battery condition?
A. The monitor panel inside the RV does not give any indication on battery condition. The best way to find a RV batteries’ state of charge is with a battery hydrometer.

Battery Storage

Q. What should I do with my RV battery in the winter?

1. Your RV battery needs to be removed from your RV
2. The top of the battery should be cleaned with baking soda
3. Watered with distilled water if the lead plates under the battery caps are starting to show.
4. Hydrometer checked once a month and charged if low.
5. Store in a dry cool place.

The best way to protect your RV is with some sort of shelter. If you don’t have some sort of covered area for your RV, a breathable RV cover is the next best thing to protect your RV.

• RV covers are ideal for high moisture climates like we have in the East Kootenays.
• PolyPro or PermaPro fabric top resists and repels rain and snow yet vents inside water vapor out.
• Prevents mold, mildew and ice buildup.
• Rugged UV and water-resistant polypropylene fabric side will protect your RV against moisture, UV rays, dirt and bird droppings.
• Strap and buckle attachments prevent billowing in windy locations and allow for custom look.
• A RV cover will save you time by reducing the need to wash & wax.
• A RV cover will protect the resale value of your RV by keeping it looking like new.
• Many looks to choose from and to closely match the size of your RV.
  

Should you cover your RV with a tarp?

Definitely not!

A tarp can do more harm than good. Tarps hold moisture in to the RV causing mold/mildew to develop and could actually cause a leak due to lack of evaporation of the water over a period of time.  A breathable cover is recommended. To find more information about the covers we sell go to www.classicaccessories.com.

RV absorption refrigerators depend on three main things in order to keep them running efficiently and if these three things are not correct, the cooling unit may fail. Like anything else,  usually more than one of these three things are wrong when a cooling unit fails. They are as follows:

Level of unit 

Most RV’ers prefer to camp on level ground; however it doesn’t take long with a fridge off-level to overheat a cooling unit. Even driving up a long steep hill can cause the liquid in the fridge’s boiler to shift and the boiler to sustain damage. We suggest making the levelness of the camping spot a priority when parking so that the fridge does not have much time off-level or shutting off the fridge until parked level.

Ventilation 

Ventilation is fairly easy maintenance for an experienced RV’er. If you are unsure of how to check for ventilation behind the fridge ask your RV technician what he/she is looking for at your next service appointment. The vent can be removed from behind the fridge. Basically you want to make sure there are no blockages when looking from the exterior vent and checking that the gap is between 0-1” clearances (depending on fridge manufacturer). Blocked airflow of any kind can make the fridge’s boiler to overheat causing heat damage to the metal which will eventually cause the unit to fail.

Exterior Temperature 

The hardest to control when it comes to your cooling unit is exterior temperature. If the temperature outside is too hot or too cold a cooling unit can easily fail. Also, mixed with a unit that is partially un-level or a fridge with ventilation issues, it is very hard on the fridge. Therefore, with these factors in mind, it is very hard to say what temperatures will be too much for a cooling unit to work properly. Generally most failures or issues can start at -7 degrees Celsius and <+30 degrees Celsius, and it is recommended that if you aren’t using the fridge…to just plain shut it off and wait until temperatures drop/raise to run it again or to minimize the amount of times that the fridge is opened and closed during the day as loss of heat inside the fridge will cause the fridge to work harder. When the fridge has to work harder the boiler portion of it is actually what is working harder causing it to overheat which we covered before, will cause heat damage to the metal which will eventually cause the unit to fail.

Prevention

Unfortunately, even the most experienced RV’er can get caught with one of the three things above wrong and end up with a costly bill for either a replacement cooling unit or even a new fridge. Therefore, there must be some sort of solution to preventing cooling unit failure in the first place. And luckily there is! Our solution is an add-on device that is installed behind the fridge and protects the main cause of cooling unit failure- the fridge’s boiler overheating. It is called ARP or Absorption Refrigeration Protective Control.

 (Here is a boiler example video) 

The ARP works because it simply shuts off the fridge whenever the boiler temperature is higher than it’s usual 350 degrees. Then it continues to monitor your fridge until the temperature drops and then restarts the fridge automatically so that no food is ruined in the process, if possible. This makes sure that the boiler isn’t overheating causing stress to the metal which can cause either gradual issues or immediate failure to the unit.

A cooling unit that is running properly can operate for years, but in just a short amount of time a cooling unit can also fail. It is best to protect the unit and install a ARP control that “monitors the vital signs of your fridge to solve issues before they happen”.

(Sold at Snowy Peaks RV)

Failed Cooling Unit

So how do you know if your RV fridge is in need of repair or if it is time to replace it altogether? Just because your fridge isn’t operating properly doesn’t necessarily mean that it has a failed cooling unit. There are many factors that play major roles in an RV fridge’s operation and it is recommended that any issue with an RV fridge be tested & repaired by a certified RV technician. However, there are some tell tale signs to a failed cooling unit such as the fridge making gurgling noises, seeing a yellow powder on the back of the fridge, and/or smelling a strong chemical/ ammonia. If any of these are present, your local RV service center may advise on replacement of the cooling unit itself or the entire fridge.

Depending on the fridge sometimes a new cooling unit is the only option as fridges over the years become discontinued and the sizes change too much for modifications to the coach. Replacing just the cooling unit is usually a half or two thirds the price of a brand new RV fridge installed; however, replacement may take more time as the install and repair generally take longer (based on time of year and availability of a new fridge).

If you are just replacing the cooling unit there are two options. You can either buy a brand new cooling unit from either Dometic or Norcold, depending on the make of your fridge. Or your cooling unit may be repaired by an Absorption Refrigerator Repair Technician; which usually means having the cooling unit removed and sent to Hillstreet Propane in Enderby, BC for repair. In the summer months it can take up to three weeks to have a fridge repaired as Hillstreet propane is the only person certified to repair a cooling unit in western Canada.

Either way it is best to prevent cooling unit failure before it happens as RV fridges tend to be more expensive then regular household ones.

Lindsey Roberts

Red Seal RV Technician

Snowy Peaks RV

Unfortunately vent lids are very susceptible to weather damage. It is very common for RV’ers to find that their vent lids have deteriorated due to prolonged sun exposure or have encountered a bad storm. Other ways that vent lids break are from either shoveling snow in the winter or contact with trees or other obstacles.

When a vent breaks it is usually just the lid that is damaged. This is a very good thing because unlike replacing the entire vent; the lid is very easily replaced. All you need to know is what hinge pattern you have and installing a new lid is simple.

If by chance the screen and lifting mechanism of the vent lid is damaged replacement becomes a much bigger process. First,l the caulking covering the base of the vent and the RV roof needs to be completely scraped off and cleaned. Then the vent needs to be removed and putty needs to be placed under the new vent flange. The inside shroud should be unscrewed and removed at this time for ease of installation for the vent above. The new vent is now ready to be placed in the roof and screwed down. After the vent is screwed into the roof, the screws and edges of the vent must be sealed with a specific RV roof sealant. Now that the roof is sealed, the shroud inside needs to be reinstalled or replaced (most roof vents come with a replacement shroud; however depending on the thickness of the RV roof you may need to purchase a thicker or thinner shroud).

Because I’m a proactive person I’ll let you in on a little secret…there are ways to make sure that your roof vent never breaks! Vent Covers.

If you install a vent cover over top of the existing vent, it will be protected from almost everything that can destroy your existing vent lid while still allowing sun light and air to come into the unit. Most of these vent lids have a zero-leak design so that you can just drill holes into the side of your existing vent surround and never have to remove caulking or anything else to install them. The picture below is of a Maxx-Air vent lid cover that features;

• Rain or Shine! Stale Musty Air, Smoke, and Cooking Odors Escape While Rain Stays Out
• Available in Translucent White, Smoke Tint, Shell-white(Almond), Silver and Champagne
  • Prevents Heat Build-up
• Made of High Density Polyethylene with maximum UV Protection
  • Not recommended for use with high-powered ventilators
  • Fits over most 14″ x 14″ Standard Roof Vents
  • Installs easily! (See our Installation Guide)
• 6 year warranty

As stated above these vent covers aren’t for roof vents with high powered fans; however they do make ones that will work with those as well!

Roof Vent Chart:

If you can’t match up which roof vent you have yourself; take a picture from the non-opening (hinge side) side of the roof vent from the roof so that we can assist you. A clear picture of the hinge is all we need!

Lindsey Roberts

Red Seal RV Technician

Snowy Peaks RV

Here at Snowy Peaks RV we are starting to book appointments to get RVs de-winterized and prepared for the summer season. The following checklist contains several helpful hints to get your camper or coach ready so you can begin with your travelling adventures.

Summer Ready Check List:

Batteries

–  Fully charge batteries with trickle charger.

– Top up wet cell batteries with distilled water if necessary.

– Clean cable contacts.

– Hydrometer test cell levels (wet cell batteries).

– Reinstall and reconnect batteries.

Exterior

– Check roof for any signs of water damage. Even newer models can sustain water leakage over winter. If there is any signs of a leak get it repaired right away.

– Check all seams for missing or cracked sealant. If any cracks or general wear and tear is discovered remove existing sealant and apply new sealant (touch ups are OK for newer small cracks).

– Lubricate all hinges and locks with spray lubricant.

– Test slide room for proper function and inspect the slide seal condition; lubricate seal with a slide seal lubricant. Lubricate the slide rail with a slide out dry lube.

– Check Windows, mouldings, access doors, and compartment doors for a watertight seal.

– Check roof vents, skylights, and air conditioner shrouds, etc. Repair/replace damaged covers immediately.

For motorhomes: Check all engine fluids, Transmission, Engine Oil, Power Steering Fluid, Antifreeze, Windshield Wiper Fluid

– De-winterize Hyrdronic heating system (if applicable)

Exterior Preventative Maintenance

– Wash rubber roof and treat with UV protecting chemical.

– Wash any dirt or black streaks that occurred during the colder months.

Tanks (Fresh, Grey, & Black)

– Check condition of gate valves.

– Drain and flush tanks thoroughly.

– Test fresh water system for leaks with pressurized air.

– Clean/Sanitize fresh tanks and lines with RV approved solution.

Water Heater

– Blow out burner area of any bugs or debris.

– Flush water heater of any sediment/debris.

– Un-bypass water heater tank.

Suburban Water Heaters – reinstall anode rod (replace if over 70% deteriorated).

Atwood Water Heaters – reinstall plastic plug.

Tires/Axles

– Check shackles, u-bolts and springs for any signs of damage or excessive wear.

– Repack wheel bearings every other year.

– Check lug nut torque and ensure it is to the manufacturers specifications.

– Inspect tires for cracks or other damages, and set to correct inflation.

– Test breakaway switch for proper function.

First of all, we recommend using good quality skirting for your RV. There are many ways to do this from buying pre-made skirting to building your own.

DIY Skirting:

1. Plywood – Pros – Sturdy, durable, and inexpensive.

Cons- Not easy to move and doesn’t look very good (paint to match unit).

2. Foam Board Insulation – 2” or more in thickness.

– Pros- Inexpensive and good insulator if set up correctly.

Cons- Not easy to move, not very sturdy (reinforce with plywood), and doesn’t look good (cannot be painted).

3. Hay Bales – Pros – Very Inexpensive and great insulation.

– Cons- Hay will mold when wet, is usually full of everything you don’t want in your RV (mice, spiders, etc), and doesn’t look good at all (very unlikely that a park would let you have hay as your insulator).

Vinyl – Pros – Easily movable if set up correctly and moderate cost (usually under $1000).

– Cons – Lower insulation value, takes time to slide all the pieces together (can be very difficult if ground is uneven or you don’t have experience with vinyl skirting).

Professional Skirting: 

1. EZ Snap Skirting – Pros – Easily movable and looks great.

– Cons – May have lower insulation value (ask), and can be quite pricey.

EZSnapRVSkirting.com

2. RVSkirting.com – Pros – Custom fit, great insulator, easy to move, and relatively hassle free.

– Cons – Expensive ($3000+ range).

RVSkirting.com

After you have your skirting figured out you should ensure your water does not freeze. In order to avoid freezing directly at the connection you may be able to build a box out of plywood to cover the area (depending on your park rules). Then purchase heat tape, pipe insulation or a heated water hose for your city water line(s). Your sewer line can be easily heated if necessary with heat tape (unhooking the sewer line after dumping and storing it in a basement compartment can help this matter). If it gets really cold in your area the water tanks can be heated as well with an RV specific tank heater.

Next you can consider insulating windows, doors and roof vents. Sometimes RVers will only insulate large windows due to the blocking of sunlight.

Windows:

***** dual sided tape and good quality stretch window film insulation

***     cut out Styrofoam blocks to fit (awkward and block sunlight)

***     sew custom window coverings with insulating properties.

**       Keep curtains/blinds closed.

Doors: Door window cover

Roof Vents: ***** – Vent Shield – Custom fit to cover 14X14 roof vents.

*** – Cut Styrofoam to fit roof vents (can fall down if not fitted properly).

After everything is sealed off you will notice an increase in humidity in the unit. The best thing to do in this case is get some moist remover in the unit. The moist remover will collect the moisture from the air in the bucket or dry-it bag leaving you to dump the bucket/throw out the dry-it bag and refill/replace. If condensation is left in the unit it may cause damage to the unit.

Heating the unit will cost more in the winter months. In order to get better value for the propane and to avoid the hassle of constantly filling up cylinders rent/purchase a large propane tank. Low Cost Propane in our area delivers & refills these cylinders when RVers use their propane. If you are looking to refill propane cylinders locally Fernie Rentals refills propane tanks.

Once all this is done your RV is ready to handle almost everything in the cold weather winter in Canada brings!

– Lindsey Roberts

Please note that these are just suggestions and are in no way guaranteed to keep your unit from freezing in cold weather. 

Lindsey Roberts

Snowy Peaks RV

If you own an RV you most likely know that when using a holding RV tank you need to treat it with a holding tank treatment and certain things such as weather will affect the effectiveness of the treatments. However many have wondered why there are so many treatments and which one is right for them so we thought we’d narrow it down for you!

Types of Holding Tank Chemicals:

                                       Formaldehyde Based Tank Treatments: $

Formaldehyde based tank treatments are the original tank treatments. These treatments combine formaldehyde, methyl alcohol and coloring to mask odors in holding tanks and kill bacteria. The issue with formaldehyde based products is the environmental harm that they may cause and therefore, they are banned in some places.

Chemical Based Tank Treatments: $$$

Enzyme/Bacteria Based Tank Treatments: $

Pro-biotic Tank Treatments: $$

Unfortunately sometimes awning fabrics do rip or are weathered beyond repair. If this happens we need some information to create a quote for you.

The most important information that we need is the size of your awning. This measurement is fairly easy to take and does not require you to climb any ladders! All we need is the measurement of center of awning arm to center of awning arm. The image below explains how to take this measurement.

Next we need to know what the material of the awning is made of. There are two basic materials that awnings come in; acrylic or vinyl fabric. Most awnings are made of the vinyl fabric.

Finally, we need to know what color of awning you prefer. Below are the colors that our awning manufacturer supplies for vinyl awnings.

If you are looking at installing a brand new awning on a unit that doesn’t currently have one, please allow one of our technicians to look at the unit and decide the proper length for the unit.

Slide Topper Awnings:

Slide-out or slide topper awnings are always a good idea to protect your investment. They deter water, leaves, needles, sunlight and other harmful environmental factors from damaging both the slide roof and slide seals. The image below describes how to measure for a new slide topper awning and gives the proper awning measurements.

If your current slide topper awning fabric is damaged, we have replacement fabric in stock.